Baños, Ecuador
Baños is a colorful town situated at the base of Volcano Tungurahua. Thousands of tourists flock here on the weekends to enjoy the crisp, cool climate and soak in the thermal baths. Often called the “Gateway of the Amazon”, the town is surrounded by lush hillsides that provide a beautiful background wherever you turn.
WHAT TO DO
If you are looking for adventure on your trip to Ecuador, this town is sure to please. The streets are lined with numerous tour companies, prepared to take you white water rafting, rent you a mountain bike or daringly toss you off the side of the San Francisco bridge on a bungee cord. An abundance of hiking trails surround the town. Get your workout by hiking over 700 stairs to reach the Virgin del Agua Santa. If you are feeling extra motivated, follow the path behind the statue for a couple of hours until you reach the Bellavista, where a white cross is situated on the hilltop.
If you are looking for relaxation and cleansing, you have also come to the right place. Massages and other spa treatments are plentiful and affordable. Facials, full body massages, foot soaks, ear candling, and more can be found all around town. While you are here, make a point to spend some time in a steam box. The locals believe that the water here in Baños is sacred and that steam boxes are a way to cleanse your own spirit and body.
El Refugio
For a unique and special experience, take a short cab ride to El Refugio. This spa is located just on the outskirts of town, but it feels like a whole different world. Start your spa treatment off with a relaxing nature walk, where you will be able to view the canyons and mountains surrounding the town of Baños while clearing your mind in preparation for your spa experience. Next, head inside and pick your treatments. El Refugio offers plenty, including relaxation massages, facials, mud baths and steam boxes. Their services extend beyond the typical spa treatments as well, so you may want to consider some more “cleansing” treatments, such as ear candling to remove wax buildup, intestine cleansing, and ionic detoxification through foot soaks.
If you are feeling like sightseeing, there are plenty of touristy things to do as well. The zoo is certainly worth the $2 admission fee. It is home to “all things gigantic”, including the Galapagos Turtle, the world’s largest rodent and even a couple of Condors. You can arrive by bus or cab, but taking the short walk will give you a better view of the canyon gorges and river. It is easy find, but check the maps in town to make sure you are headed in the right direction. Once you are back in town, make a point to stop by the museum in the church. Photos are allowed, so be sure to take an abundance to show your friends. Otherwise, you may have a hard time convincing them you saw a pig with the trunk of an elephant sitting in a jar full of formaldehyde. There are other fascinating pieces of art depicting the volcanic eruptions and favorite Saints. If you are looking to get outside of town, jump on a bus tour of the nearby waterfalls. The 3-hour tour costs $5, and most agencies take their shuttles out twice a day.
If your lively spirits have you searching for a place to throw back some drinks and dance the night away, well, Baños is right up your alley. The clubs don’t get their start until 10:00 p.m. or later, but there are plenty to choose from and the drink specials are competitive. There’s always a special: Ladies Drink Free, 3×1 mojitos, Cuba Libras Feurte y mas! Dance on balconies overlooking the streets or beaches built inside, and lounge like a star in upscale VIP sections.
WHERE TO STAY
There is a plenitude of hostels and hotels to meet the needs of any traveler. Most locations offer clean, spacious rooms, hot water, Internet access and many include breakfast as well. Rates average between $7 to $12 per person, although there are higher end accommodations available for those willing to pay a bit more. If you are considering staying for several nights, be sure to ask for a discount on the quoted rates.
La Chimenea is a favorite amongst backpackers. It is located on the northern end of town, and away from the discotheques and noise. Request a room with a balcony overlooking the waterfall. The private bathrooms are exceptionally clean and have consistent amounts of hot water. Enjoy a reasonably priced breakfast with a view from the upstairs patio. The hotel offers many services, including: WiFi (plus computers for your use), laundry service, swimming pool and hot tub (not open year round) and even massages and steam boxes. Prices start at $8.50 per person.
Hostel Transilvania is located on the other end of town, and it is a bit more affordable. Breakfast is included in the attached Mediterranean-style restaurant. It also has WiFi, hot water and private bathrooms. The rooms are spacious and clean, and the owner and his family are very personable. Prices are around $7 per person.
D’Mathias is a hidden gem that was just recently constructed (or reconstructed, perhaps). This backpacker’s hostel is located around the corner from the bus station and down an alley clearly marked “Backpacker’s Hostel” by the neighboring hotel (Nomads). This family-run hostel has a variety of dorm rooms, and three double rooms on the top floor (away from any noise the dorms may bring). The double rooms are pristine, with beautiful brick walls and hardwood floors. Hot water private bathrooms with new tiles are another added bonus. The top floor has a patio with views of the city. WiFi is available, and there’s a public computer downstairs in the dining area. The shared kitchen makes this hostel a truly good value. It is fully equipped and spacious enough to be used by multiple groups at once. The owners are an incredibly sweet couple working very hard to make sure their customers feel like they are home. Prices are $6 per person.
WHERE TO EAT
If you think you are stuck eating rice and beans while in Baños, think again. The unique variety of cuisine available is astounding, and sure to please any palate. That being said, do yourself a favor and stop by a local joint for Almuerzo. The typical Ecuadorian lunch costs about $2, and includes soup, a main dish, juice and sometimes dessert. The menu changes daily depending on the availability of produce and meats. Choose your location based on how crowded it is – the locals know where to go.
The Market (El Mercado) is located across from the grocery store, and it is a bustling event not to be missed during lunchtime. The row of juice ladies will whip you up fresh fruit smoothies and veggie juices for around $1. (Sit down at their stand to enjoy them, and chances are your drinks will be “topped off”.) Typical “almuerzo” is served from most of the stands, but everyone will offer something just a bit different; so it’s worth it to shop around to see what’s available.
El Paisano is a bit off the beaten path, and typically appears to be closed. It’s most likely just that the owner is back in his art studio or working in the closed-off kitchen. There is plenty to admire while you are waiting, since the dining room seconds as his personal art gallery. The vegetarian dishes are unique creations of an assortment of vegetables and spices, although there are delicious options for the carne-lovers as well. If you crave pizza, they come highly recommended. Prices start at $3.
Ayahuaska was located down in the discotheque area, but they were planning on relocating to a larger space. It’s worthwhile to hunt them down. The chef has created an extraordinarily unique setting to match his distinctive menu. Start with the Mediterranean Platter, which consists of a flatbread cut into pizza-like slices topped with guacamole, slices of apple and a bit of sautéed spinach. This dish is served with a melted mozzarella-tomato sauce and a spicy eggplant spread for dipping. The beverage menu is also sure to impress most guests. Choose from a variety of fresh juices, herbal teas and alcoholic concoctions. (Usually opened during the weekends only).
La Posada del Arte, a boutique hotel located on the north side of town, offers a tremendous breakfast that is worth the splurge. The fruit salad and granola option is an absolute decadent treat. The fresh fruit is served with homemade granola, yogurt and honey right from the comb. It includes a basket of assorted breads, paired with fresh strawberry jam, butter and a few slices of rich, creamy cheese. If you are craving more of a protein booster, the “Huevos Rancheros” is guaranteed to satisfy. A heaping plate of fried eggs, rice and beans are served with substantial portions of homemade guacamole, spicy pico de gallo and shredded cheese. All breakfast plates come with your choice of freshly made juice, plus coffee or tea. Prices are $6 per plate (side dishes and small plates are available.)
For dessert, the streets are lined with stalls of candy vendors making taffy and other cane sugar treats. Watch the taffy, or Melcocha in Spanish, being made and enjoy a free sample. Pure and rich Ecuadorian chocolate can be found at Amoré, a small chain of coffee shops scattered throughout town. Chocolate empanadas are sometimes found at a couple locations near the bus station, and local bakeries offering slices of cakes and a variety of sweet breads are located all over town.